Spas of Baden-Baden

Note: I wrote this post after a trip I took last May, but I forgot to post it until recently, when a friend mentioned she’s planning a trip there.

This weekend, Thomas went on a company retreat to the South of Spain – spouses were not invited – so instead, I spent the weekend pampering myself at the spa in Baden-Baden. Baden-Baden, meaning “bath bath,” is a small town tucked away in the Black Forest of Germany. There are natural springs there that release hot thermal mineral water, which is used at the local spas.

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Panoramic View of the Two Spas

One of the new experiences for me in my trip was that some of the spas promoted public nudity, even when men and women were together. Europeans seem much more open with the human body than Americans – all people have body parts under their clothes, some with hair, some that sag, and even some with flabby parts. There, it didn’t seem unnatural – there was no reason to gawk.

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Walking Path Along the River

There are 2 spas – Friedrichsbad and Caracalla. You can see what Friedrichsbad is like in Rick Steve’s video, but I went to Caracalla, the less structured of the two.

Caracalla has 2 levels – downstairs is swimsuit required and upstairs is nudity required – just leave your swimsuit at the door. Note: You don’t have to go upstairs if it doesn’t suit your fancy, but it’s an interesting experience, and honestly, you’re never going to see those people again. :)

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Dandelion Field

Caracalla is best described as a playground of pools, showers, jets, streams, waterfalls and saunas. You can try them all or just pick out the ones you like, spending as much time as you want at each. For 3-hours, it cost about $20.  By the end of my time there, I tried them all, upstairs and down. My favorites were the hot pool and the icy grottos – hopping from one to the other takes your breath away.

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Snail at the Rose Garden

I also got to try more types of saunas than I knew existed – aromatherapy, menthol, crystal, steam, fire-burning, and glass. My favorite was the fire-burning which was outdoors. It felt a little weird to walk outdoors without clothes on, take an icy shower, and then step into the sauna with others sitting in there, but the surrounding heat and crackling fire was very relaxing.

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Flower-lined Bridge over River

Speaking of relaxing, there were also a few places to take a nap – under heat lamps, on a rooftop garden, in the nature filled bamboo room, and in the blue space. The blue space (also upstairs) was a little trippy – it was lit with blue lights and playing peaceful new age music. you just spread out on white pots for a rest.

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Wildflowers in the Hills

Overall, the spa was a great experience – fun, relaxing and culturally different. I also enjoyed a gorgeous hike in the nearby Natur Park Schwarzwald. The views were amazing of nearby towns and the fields were covered in wildflowers. Baden-Baden is a beautiful town – flowers everywhere, a babbling river, gorgeous architecture that reminded me of a mini-Rome. I can’t wait until I can take Thomas back there and explore more of it. There’s also a casino, castle, and monastery all within bicycling distance – plenty to do for a long weekend.

If you’d like to see more of my photos from the trip, I’ve posted them on Flickr.  And no, there are no photos from within the Spa – cameras are not allowed.

A Roman Boardgame: Three Men’s Morris

While we were in Trier, we visited the Imperial Baths where we learned about an ancient boardgame called Three Men’s Morris.  This game is similar to Tic-Tac-Toe, but with more moves.  It’s very simple to set up and easy to learn.

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Imperial Baths in Trier, Germany

Here’s how you play.  You need 2 sets of three markers and a board.  The board has a circle on it with a + and an X in it making 9 cross points (incl. one in the middle).  You can see the board that the Romans used below.  The purpose of the game is to get three of your pieces in a row, before your opponent does.  Start by taking turns placing the pieces.  Once all pieces are placed, you can continue taking turns moving your pieces one space, following the lines.

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Romans playing Three Men's Morris

While our group went on to the next sight, Thomas and I sat outside and tried out the game.  You can see here, how easy it is to setup.  We used a pothole as the circle, 3 sticks and leaves as the cross points, and rocks and berries as our markers.

Duplicating Roman Boardgames

Playing Three Men's Morris with sticks and stones

Next time you’re just sitting around, give it a try.  It’s quick, easy, and you can play anywhere, with anything.

When in Trier, Do as Romans Do

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Vinyards in the Mosel Valley

Last weekend, Thomas and I joined the A-club for camping in Trier. Though in Germany, Trier has a long Roman history. It was originally called Augusta Treverorum, and founded by Emperor Augustus in 16 BC, even earlier than ancient Rome. While we were in Trier, we had an interesting experience at Zum Domstein, where we enjoyed an authentic Roman dinner.

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Tourists at Porta Nigra

Dinners were the largest meal of the day for Romans. We enjoyed a multi-course meal based off of Apicius, a collection of ancient Roman recipes. Romans did not have all the same ingredients we have today, such as tomatoes, potatoes, and sugar.  For sweetener, they used honey instead.  Wealthy Romans would often lounge on sofas as they dined, but we sat at regular tables, surrounded by local Roman artifacts. However, the waiters did wear togas.

For my meal, I had:

  • Apertif: Mulsum – White wine mixed with anise and honey, served in a clay cup
  • Soup: Tisana – hearty barley soup with a little lemon juice and dill
  • Bread: Mustea – Bread made with wine, cheese, anise, and a bay leaf  (best bread I’ve ever tasted)
  • Appetizer: Lucanicae/Fabaciae – Sausage links mixed with pine nuts, served with green beans in fish sauce
  • Appetizer: Cardui – Cooked artichokes in vinegar sauce
  • Main Dish: Chicken in Allec sauce – Allec sauce is the sediment left at the bottom of the barrel that other fish sauces were made in. Luckily, I didn’t know what it was when I ate it.  Thomas had lamb with herbs, wine, onions, and dates, but I couldn’t tell a difference between our sauces.
  • Dessert: Patina de Piris – Pear souffle with peppercorns

If you head to Trier, I really recommend the restaurant.  It was a delicious and very unique meal. For the foodies out there, I’ve linked to some of the corresponding recipes that I’ve found online.

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St. Peter's Cathedral

Also on our trip, we wandered around the Mosel Valley where we visited a castle, saw many great views, and visited a wine shop where we tasted eiswein, a sweet wine made from grapes frozen on the vine. Though the wine was very good, it was pretty pricey, so we just bought a bottle of Reisling instead.

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Knocker on the Cathedral Door

In Trier, we visited the Roman sights: Imperial Baths, Porta Nigra city gate, Cathedral of St. Peter, and also the Karl Marx house.  It’s a great town to visit for a weekend – very walkable, and plenty to see.  And, I’ve heard they have a fantastic Christmas market.  If you’d like to see more photos from our trip, I’ve posted them on Flickr:

Ramstein with Cousins

Day 21 – 22: This is the end of our EuroTrip. And what better way to end it, then by visiting family – we headed to Ramstein, Germany to visit my cousins for two days. They’ve got three adorable kids – 1, 3, and 7-years old – and we had a great time playing with them.

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Up and Down Stairs

Unfortunately, I got a bad headache while I was there and felt kind of out of it, but while I was feeling okay, the kiddos were great fun. We hiked in the woods, visited the cows down the street, drew with sidewalk chalk, played hide and seek, and climbed all over Thomas. Well, I didn’t climb on him, but they thought he was a human jungle gym.

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Drawing with Sidewalk Chalk

My cousin is in the Air Force and gave us a tour of the Ramstein Air Force Base. Wow, that place is huge! It’s like a complete American city in the middle of Germany. It was really weird to see US post office boxes, American police cars, Burger King, etc. They took us to the Macaroni Grill on base for dinner, and Thomas and I marveled over the service – free refills, ice cubes, English menus, free water, doggie bags. These are all things you wouldn’t see in Belgium.

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Hiking with Sticks

They also took us to the American grocery store on base. Honestly, I felt a little depressed going there. I saw all kinds of products I missed from the US, (cheese dip, ranch dressing, cake mix) at rock bottom prices, but we didn’t get anything. Part of it was because we couldn’t carry anything on the motorcycle, but part of me wrestled with the fact that I didn’t NEED any of that stuff. I can live perfectly fine in Belgium without it. This doesn’t mean I won’t stock up when I go home, but I did a lot of debating over Want vs. Need.

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Talking to the Moos

The final day, we packed up and headed home through Luxembourg. After 3 weeks, Thomas and I were very eager to get home and didn’t stop long, but Luxembourg City looked like a really cute town to visit again sometime.

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Riding the Human Motorcycle

So that’s it…we can now say we rode a motorcycle on country roads through 7 countries over 3 weeks. We measured it out and found that if drove the same mileage in the US, we would have gone from Atlanta to Seattle. It was a wonderful, memory-filled trip. I feel like I got to connect with Thomas, learn more about myself, and discover new places.

I’m still working on a few more photos from Austria, Munich, and Southern Germany, but I skipped ahead and edited the rest of the photos from this leg of the trip. They’re posted on Flickr:

The Romantic Road and Beyond

Day 19-20: On the next part of our EuroTrip, we followed the Romantic Road, a country route through lots of little medieval towns. I’m sure it’s got it’s charm, but after some of the other routes we rode on, I just couldn’t get over the touristy push of this one. The Romantic Road signs were even labeled in Japanese. My biggest excitement of this route was finally capturing a photo of Thomas and me in a street mirror.

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Say Cheese!

The next day, on our way to a nature reserve, we saw some storks feeding in a field and decided to break early.  Across the street was a grouping of 3 lakes, so we took a walk around them.  Those who know Thomas will know what he’s doing in this photo — catching frogs. There were a ton!

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Thomas catching frogs

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Got one!

The other break we had was fun because the town name is our last name. We drove around until we found a sign that we could pose by.

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Thomas poses by the sign

Our last name is Swedish (Thomas was born there) and is spelled has two dots over the O. This town didn’t have the dots, so I made sure to correct the sign with real rock dots.

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Dallas shows how it's correctly spelled. :)

Thomas has been catching up on his blog with some great entries from the EuroTrip.  He’s picked some different photos and focuses on different aspects of our trip than I do.  If you haven’t already, be sure to check them out at: http://sprocket.io