Home Sweet Home – Moroccan Style

In the next part of our trip, we traveled through the Saharan Desert. This part ended up being the most touristy – riding camels, sleeping in the sand dunes, listening to the Gnawa musicians – but I did appreciate seeing the different kinds of homes that people in the desert live in.

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Most uncomfortable ride ever - 1.5hrs on a camel

The most interesting to me was the camel-hair tents that the nomads lived in. Part of our tour included having tea in one of their tents. I had imagined that they would sit with us, and we would be able to ask them all about their lives in the desert. Instead, they quickly served us tea, and went back to work outside. It was a little awkward sitting in someone’s home, who you know has much less money than you do, and drinking their tea without them. At the least, we were able to give them a little money in appreciation, some candy for the kids, and our guide helped one of their sons that needed some medical attention.

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Kids outside the Nomad tent

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Drinking tea in a Nomad tent

The tents were made with cloth from woven camel hair. They also had a loom to weave it on. It was divided into 2 rooms, one with blankets lined by backpacks and suitcases, where they slept (and where we drank our tea), and the other was a little more clear, maybe for doing work under shelter. Nomads are the families of shepherds, so they set camp in an area where their flock is roaming, and move to a new location about every 4 months. They had two other structures – one for where they baked bread, and the other was for storage. That’s it! Nothing else but desert in sight.

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Nomad's Straw Storage Hut

We also drove around some of the communities that were more permanent. Our guide told us he grew up in this one, where the homes are made from clay and straw. There were several homes organized more like a neighborhood, with dirt streets between them.

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Clay and straw home

Some of the villages we passed were called ksar, which means that they were a group of homes within a fortified city wall. We were able to walk through one of these and see what a home was like. The part that shocked me most was how much damage erosion had done to the homes.  You could tell that at one point, these were very ornate.

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Ksar with lots of erosion

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Room inside a Ksar

The bigger cities we went to had homes and apartments closer to what we’re used to, but these others were really interesting to see. I could imagine them in a historical sense, but it was hard to imagine that this is where people still live now-days. It really makes you think twice about how luxurious our homes are, with running water, heating, weather-proofness, etc.

For more photos from our desert excursion, see Flickr:

Middle Atlas to Merzouga

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Highway through the Middle Atlas Mountains

For the second day of our trip, we drove from Fez, through the Middle Atlas Mountains to Midelt. The mountains were gorgeous. I loved seeing all the nomad shepherds and flocks of sheep, such a difference from the fenced-in farms around our part of Europe.  What an interesting life it would be to roam the mountains with your flock – I guess that’s what cowboys used to do.

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Nomadic Family's Home

We stopped in the middle of the day to see wild monkeys at a large cedar forest in the Ifrane National Park.  The forest was gorgeous, but unfortunately the monkeys have become a tourist site and seem no more wild than raccoons at the beach parks in Florida.

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Wild Monkey in Ifrane National Forest

The next day, we drove through Errachidia and the Ziz Valley to the Merzouga desert.  This was a completely different terrain than the day before – very sandy and dry.  There were a couple places where a river ran through the area and those parts were lush and green and packed with olive trees and date palms.  We had lunch (tagines) at a palmery where we spotted some frogs and toads.

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Toad at a Palmery in the Ziz Valley

That afternoon, our guide gave us a tour of the Rissani market. Rissani is a fairly big desert town, but the market still felt really run down. My favorite part was the donkey parking lot where people left their donkeys while they went shopping or trading.

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Local Woman on her Donkey

I’ve posted more photos from these two days on Flickr:

Quilting Bee Blocks and a Potholder

I got a bit behind in my online quilting bees, but last Monday, Sarah came over and we quilted up a storm.  While she worked on some Christmas gifts, I worked on my quilting bee blocks.  These are some of my favorites that I did.

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The first block was a request for a geometric shape on a white background.  Diamonds are a lot harder than I thought they would be, but I like the bold design.  The second one asked for a mini-quilt.  She had such a wide variety of fabrics, so I had to find something that pulled them all together.  Matching the points on the triangles was a little tricky.  The third one is a string quilt and I can’t wait to see all of her blocks put together.  I’m considering a string quilt for my next month in the quilting bees.  The last one asked for a star on a white background with these beautiful Asian-inspired fabrics.  This time I used the half-square triangle method and the triangles didn’t stretch and the points fit just right.

2009-10-06 Quilted Potholder

I also recently completed a little quilt, or at least it’s what I’m calling it. It has patchwork, quilting, binding…but it’s only 6 inches square. I was asked to make a prize for a Breast Cancer Fundraiser, so I made a quilted potholder. I was able to use all scraps and I really liked how it all turned out.

Finally, a Morocco Post

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Recently, Thomas and I spent a week in Morocco – just enough time to give us a feel for it.  Even as soon as I boarded our flight, I knew that it was going to feel different than Belgium.  Unlike the very private, quiet feel you get from Belgians, there were people chatting loudly and wandering the plane aisles throughout the flight.

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We started our Morocco trip in Fez, the religious center of the country and home to the largest and oldest medina (walled city).  We had only one day to explore before our tour of the South started, so we spent it at the medina, exploring the bazaars, workshops, and fruit and spice stalls.

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The medina was great – new sights, new sounds, new smells.  The streets are a narrow maze crowded with people and donkeys.  French and Arabic are the official languages, but many shop owners also spoke English, hoping to lure us to a tannery tour or haggle the prices of carpets.  We also heard the distant call to prayer throughout the day, a calm break from the hustle and bustle surrounding us.

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I’ll admit that I felt a little nervous planning this trip.  I heard all kinds of stories from friends and online – from you’ll be harassed non-stop in the markets, to people will purposely get you lost so you have to pay them to get back to your hotel.  Other than in our final city, Marrakesh, we didn’t find this to be the case on our trip.  Fez was a wonderful city where we felt comfortable wandering by ourselves – a great intro to the beautiful country we were about to explore.

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Next stop..Middle Atlas Mountains and then the desert!

If you’d like to see more of our photos from Fez, I’ve posted them on Flickr:

P.S .  Yes, the Fez hats did originate here, but they were popularized by the Ottoman Empire military.

My Sewing Accident

Wow, I’m really surprised that talking about the nude spas in the previous post didn’t generate more comments.  Oh well, I never know what will spark comments, but it was a bit of a shocking experience to me.

Friday’s plan was lots of sewing and then post a Work in Progress before I got into the Morocco photos.  Unfortunately, I never made it because I ended up having a sewing accident and had to go to the ER for stitches.  Warning:  Rotary cutter blades are sharp!!!

The Weapon

The Weapon

As I was taking apart my rotary cutter to put in a sharper blade, I dropped it and immediately jumped back.  My Mother-in-law has given me all kinds of warnings about how dangerous those are after she had one drop on her foot years back.  I thought about that as soon as I dropped the blade, especially since I only had socks on.  Unfortunately, the blade hit the ground and rolled around, with my foot landing on it.  Yikes!!

I don’t do well with the sight of blood (and there was a lot), but I was able to bandage it up to stop the bleeding.  I messaged Thomas online about what happened and told him that it was deep enough that it would probably need stitches, so he came on home to help me navigate our first time with the Belgian healthcare system.

It all turned out okay.  Once he was home, we called a taxi to take us to the local hospital.  They gave me 5 stitches and a tetnus shot and sent me home.  There were, however, a few differences in how everything worked:

  • I didn’t have to fill out any forms.  They just swiped my identity card and had all the info they needed.
  • No money was exchanged at the hospital.  A bill will be mailed to me, and since I forgot my insurance card, I can work that out afterward.
  • They used tough threads that need to be removed rather than the disintegrating kind.  I get them removed by my general physician, rather than back at the hospital.
  • I *think* that if I had needed the stitches before 5PM, I could have had my general physician put them in rather than the ER.
  • They gave me a prescription for antibiotics, but we had to search for a pharmacy that is open past 6PM.  They’re generally closed then, but they rotate which one is open later, printing the list in the newspaper or online.
  • The ER was thorough and good, but more with a tough love kind of feeling.  I was surprised that they didn’t give crutches – yes, I can hobble around without them, but the US would have given me some, at least so I didn’t step on the wound before it was sewn up.  This one was the biggest surprise to me.

It all worked out and though I didn’t get any real sewing done, my friend Sarah is coming over today so we can work on our projects together.

Since I can’t stand the sight of blood, myself, I’ll hold off on posting more photos in this post, but if you really want to see more, they’re on Flickr:

P.S.  No quilt blocks were harmed in the making of this blog post.